Massive, dangerous waves are hitting California. Here’s why

[1LoverofGod]

UPDATE: California storm prompts Santa Cruz evacuation warning

The first huge swell of the winter has arrived in California, and with it comes dangerous surf set to rival some of the biggest waves this year.

Waves up to 40 feet are possible Thursday and high surf warnings and advisories are in effect up and down the California coast. It’s the first high surf warning issued by the Bay Area National Weather Service office since January, when big waves caused serious damage along Santa Cruz’s iconic West Cliff Drive that’s still being repaired.

Huge low-pressure systems in the Pacific Ocean are pushing large groups of waves toward the California coast.

More

MSN

 

[1LoverofGod]

 

[Andy C]

Crazy weather, but not unprecedented in that area.

I wonder how many brave/dumb surfers will enter the waters.

 

[Tall Timbers]

I wonder how many brave/dumb surfers will enter the waters.

For 40 foot waves? Most of them.

 

[Ghoti Ichthus]

Surf's up!
Anyone out there taking advantage? Pix?

 

[Andy C]

Surf's up!
Anyone out there taking advantage? Pix?

I wouldn't even surf the waves in my bathtub.

 

[Tall Timbers]

I wouldn't even surf the waves in my bathtub.

That could be dangerous, especially if you secure the bathtub to your ankle with a bungee line so it won't get too far away from you...

 

[spartan sprinter]

Crazy weather, but not unprecedented in that area.

I wonder how many brave/dumb surfers will enter the waters.

there' s always a few

 

[spartan sprinter]

Crazy weather, but not unprecedented in that area.

I wonder how many brave/dumb surfers will enter the waters.

there

I wouldn't even surf the waves in my bathtub.

And that's why you became a marine and didn't serve in the navy

 

[Tall Timbers]

For surfers, monster waves are not a threat but an opportunity that doesn't come every day.

 

[Andy C]

For surfers, monster waves are not a threat but an opportunity that doesn't come every day.

Pro surfers are already there. The average Joe surfer most likely wont attempt such monster waves.

 

[Tall Timbers]

Pro surfers are already there. The average Joe surfer most likely wont attempt such monster waves.

Most of them think they're pro level...

 

[Andy C]

Most of them think they're pro level...

Most local surfers have 4-10 feet, and then to think they can jump to a 40 footer…..big stretch, huge difference in skill level and sanity.

 

[Andy C]

Most of them think they're pro level...

I never surfed, but grew up amongst them on So Cal beaches and watched pro surfing for years. A 40 foot wave is on the borderline of requiring the surfer to be towed onto the wave by jet skis because a wave that big is moving too fast for them to paddle to stay in front of.

 

[spartan sprinter]

Most local surfers have 4-10 feet, and then to think they can jump to a 40 footer…..big stretch, huge difference in skill level and sanity.

I think you underestimate the sanity and adrenaline seeking levels of surfers

 

[Andy C]

I think you underestimate the sanity and adrenaline seeking levels of surfers

Nah, they smoke a lot of weed, talk smack, but looking up at a 40 foot wave, traveling at a high speed, “pass dude”.

 

[spartan sprinter]

Nah, they smoke a lot of weed, talk smack, but looking up at a 40 foot wave, traveling at a high speed, “pass dude”.

Yeahi love watching the big wave surf documentaries, the fitness or lung capacity to hold your breath when you get wiped out is crazy

 

[spartan sprinter]

Nah, they smoke a lot of weed, talk smack, but looking up at a 40 foot wave, traveling at a high speed, “pass dude”.

The biggest wave that i have body surfed was 6ft, the banks were shallow so as soon as i managed to paddle onto the wave i knew i was in for a very humbling dumping

 

[Andy C]

Yeahi love watching the big wave surf documentaries, the fitness or lung capacity to hold your breath when you get wiped out is crazy

For Joe surfer who is used to smaller waves, for then to jump without years of working their way up, and try a 40 footer - would be like me trying to bench 500 pounds. Sure, with a lift off, I could probably hold it up, but the minute I bend my arms there is going to be a huge crash on my chest.

 

[Andy C]

The biggest wave that i have body surfed was 6ft, the banks were shallow so as soon as i managed to paddle onto the wave i knew i was in for a very humbling dumping

I grew up body surfing at Huntington Beach in So Cal. Loved it, but knew my limits. There were several times I got dumped in what felt like a giant washing machine, and felt like I was under for several minutes but in reality, probably 5-10 seconds on little waves